Monday, October 1, 2012

Chez les "Rednecks'"

"Graulhet? Il y a les Rednecks la-bas!" 

Graulhet (pronounced grow-yay), the barista said quizzically. There are rednecks there. What? Did the fabulously dressed French man just tell me the town I will devote my English skills to for 7 months is full of rednecks? He did. My parents heard it too. Apparently it's not just a term used in America but also in the south of France. I'm beginning to think the south has the same reputation everywhere. 

His second comment- at least you're not living there. It's true, I'm living in la Ville Rose. Toulouse's name, the Pink City, comes from it's redbrick buildings and crazy beautiful sunsets. It would be more proper to call this place the violet city, though, because Toulouse is home to a particular variety of violet only seen in this part of the world. There's even a violet colored barge- La Maison de la Violette- in the Canal du Midi that serves up violet liqueurs, teas, bons bons, and soaps.  

Today was my first day as an assistant. An assistant de langue anglaise that is. I am currently an employee of the French government under the auspices of the Toulouse academy and Tarn region. Graulhet has three primary schools, so I'll split my time teaching between them all. The assistant program, aka TAPIF, is quite popular. This year there are almost 4,500 assistants from 49 countries, and we represent 15 different languages. We are employed to teach our native language at either the primary or secondary level in French public schools all over mainland France, Corsica, and in the French Caribbean. You can think of it kind of like Teach for America but in France. 

Graulhet was once a big leather production center, which brought in immigrants from North Africa- especially Morocco and Algeria where French is the main language, but since the '80s the town has been defunct. I know that the global economy is looking rough, but you can feel the weight of economic depression hanging in the air in this small countryside community. From what we saw today, there's one patisserie, a cafe that looks like a mob cover except the owner makes a mean Moroccan tea in lieu of cannelloni, and lots of closed store fronts. The schools seem to be the only source of life for Graulhet, so it makes me happy to know that I'll get to take part in helping these kids better their own situation. I've gotten so much out of learning French and traveling through France, so this is my chance to give a little something extra back. 

I will say, nothing has made me appreciate my car more than our trip to Graulhet today. Public transportation and walking are a part of everyday life in Europe, but this is the first time I've felt restricted by either. There's no train station in Graulhet, which is strange for France, so I have to take the bus. The only morning bus is at 7 am, and to get to the bus I have a walk and/or metro ride. At least the hourish bus ride to work is colored by the sunrise, vineyards, and gently rolling hills. 

Lots more coming soon, but for now bisous! 


2 comments:

  1. This sounds amazing! And I love that rednecks exist everywhere. What could be better to unite the world than the redneck culture? I miss you and I can't wait to hear more <3

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  2. Haha redneck French? I never thought I'd hear such a combination. I am so happy to hear you made it there safely. I miss you!

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