The top 5 margaritas in New Orleans

During the two months I spent in New Orleans this summer, I had my fair share of margaritas. I love nothing more than a good Rita, on the rocks with salt,  with chips and salsa. So I made it my mission to test out some of New Orleans' best, and some of her shadier, watering holes. My top picks were also tested by a one Michael Romano. He's from Connecticut, but his margarita knowledge is trustworthy. These are categorized and in no particular order.

1. Strongest Nola Rita definitely goes to Superior Grill. If you brave these tequila infested concoctions I hope you call a cab, hop a streetcar, or have a begrudging Tulane frat pledge at your beck and call. There's a fun branch in Baton Rouge too, and they usually have a band to make that tequila work the dance floor.

2. My Favorite Overall, and the Best Specialty Rita, is definitely the Rivershack Tavern's acai berry margarita. The Rivershack is one of my favorite New Orleans joints. It's a little off the beaten path on River Road going towards Metairie. You never know what to expect, but I can predict that there will be awesome food and some kind of bizarre tale to take home to your friends. The bar stools are upturned legs, I've heard a self proclaimed voodoo mama sing, and multiple men have commented on my mother's zebra print sandals. A special kind of New Orleans.

3. Best Traditional, and by traditional I mean on the rocks with a salted rim, not too sour, not too sweet, was at El Gato Negro in Lakeview. There's another in the French Quarter too. Go for the Ritas, order some guac, and if you have room try out the bison taco. It may be the best Mexican food I've ever had.

4. The Worst Margarita but the Best Old World NOLA charm was at Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop Bar. Watery margaritas are the worst. Lafitte's is known for their purple mixed drink. Lesson learned- if you're on Bourbon you might as well try out the house special. Lafitte's is where the pirate Jean Lafitte had his blacksmith shop, and the bar still has that spooky seedy feel. Candles provide the only light source, and there's usually a piano man playing NOLA favorites from within the bar's shadowy bowels.

5. A Good Rita and a Good Time was had/passed by all at the Rum House on Magazine St. Magazine is a fun place to eat dinner and people watch, and this Caribbean taqueria is usually filled with characters and good music. Taco Tuesday is a good time to stop by for a Rita.

If you disagree I'll gladly try out any competition the next time I'm in New Orleans. Enjoy and happy tasting!

Chez les "Rednecks'"

"Graulhet? Il y a les Rednecks la-bas!" 

Graulhet (pronounced grow-yay), the barista said quizzically. There are rednecks there. What? Did the fabulously dressed French man just tell me the town I will devote my English skills to for 7 months is full of rednecks? He did. My parents heard it too. Apparently it's not just a term used in America but also in the south of France. I'm beginning to think the south has the same reputation everywhere. 

His second comment- at least you're not living there. It's true, I'm living in la Ville Rose. Toulouse's name, the Pink City, comes from it's redbrick buildings and crazy beautiful sunsets. It would be more proper to call this place the violet city, though, because Toulouse is home to a particular variety of violet only seen in this part of the world. There's even a violet colored barge- La Maison de la Violette- in the Canal du Midi that serves up violet liqueurs, teas, bons bons, and soaps.  

Today was my first day as an assistant. An assistant de langue anglaise that is. I am currently an employee of the French government under the auspices of the Toulouse academy and Tarn region. Graulhet has three primary schools, so I'll split my time teaching between them all. The assistant program, aka TAPIF, is quite popular. This year there are almost 4,500 assistants from 49 countries, and we represent 15 different languages. We are employed to teach our native language at either the primary or secondary level in French public schools all over mainland France, Corsica, and in the French Caribbean. You can think of it kind of like Teach for America but in France. 

Graulhet was once a big leather production center, which brought in immigrants from North Africa- especially Morocco and Algeria where French is the main language, but since the '80s the town has been defunct. I know that the global economy is looking rough, but you can feel the weight of economic depression hanging in the air in this small countryside community. From what we saw today, there's one patisserie, a cafe that looks like a mob cover except the owner makes a mean Moroccan tea in lieu of cannelloni, and lots of closed store fronts. The schools seem to be the only source of life for Graulhet, so it makes me happy to know that I'll get to take part in helping these kids better their own situation. I've gotten so much out of learning French and traveling through France, so this is my chance to give a little something extra back. 

I will say, nothing has made me appreciate my car more than our trip to Graulhet today. Public transportation and walking are a part of everyday life in Europe, but this is the first time I've felt restricted by either. There's no train station in Graulhet, which is strange for France, so I have to take the bus. The only morning bus is at 7 am, and to get to the bus I have a walk and/or metro ride. At least the hourish bus ride to work is colored by the sunrise, vineyards, and gently rolling hills. 

Lots more coming soon, but for now bisous! 

Louisiana Saturday... Morning

"Well you get down the fiddle, and you get down the bow. Kick off your shoes, and you throw em on the floor. Dance in the kitchen till the mornin light. Lousiana Saturday night."

Doug Kershaw's song has that little something extra that makes Saturday night LSU games and Sunday BBQ's with the family that much better. His song reminds me of home, but it really just makes me want to dance. 

Louisiana Saturday mornings are a great prelude to the good food and good times of an LA Saturday night, an appetizer. My favorite way to start a Saturday right is by dancing in the Cafe in the mornin light. Cafe des Amis that is. 

Cafe des Amis is nestled in downtown Pont Breux, Breaux Bridge, home to the crawfish fest and Jake Delhomme. It's also an adorable city with some true Cajun charm and lots of bizarre antiques. It's a 45 minute drive from New Iberia and about 30 minutes from Baton Rouge. 

Since I'm getting nostalgic, I asked my dad to bring me to the Bridge this past Saturday. The music from Cafe des Amis spills out onto the street the second you hit downtown. The line is out the door, but the mimosas make the wait more fun.

Learning to Cajun dance is easy. Find the eldest couple in the crowd and watch their feet. They don't look at each other, but their feet know the way due to years of Saturday brunches and small town fais do dos. Pairs of feet trace their routes around the dance floor to the beat of the accordion, onlookers chow down on their andouille cheese grits and couche couche, and the regulars coax newbies into their first dance. Local artists' latest works hang around the walls nearby renaissance style paintings of Mary and baby Jesus. Patrons of the cafe sign the walls. It's a microcosm of Cajun country's love for food, music, dancing, religion, and community. 

If you're looking for lagniappe, look no further.